Cured Duck Breast & Wine
Part of the European Christmas
season is the serving of air-dried
cured meats. Dried cured meats
is a serious business in Europe as
entire generations of family
commit to the art and science of
learning this precise trade. There
are literally tens of thousands of
dried cured meats made in
Europe and every country is
known for its favourite. In Italy
it is Prosciutto di Parma, made
from selected whole pork legs
and aged for a minimum of 12
months. In Spain it is the deeply
flavourful Serrano ham that
comes from long-legged Iberian
hogs, which are range fed and
fattened on acorns. And in
France it is the very delectable
.Magret seche de canard. or
.Cured dried whole duck breast..
Dry-aged ordinary duck breasts,
which produces a dark, rich and
densely textured meat
reminiscent of fine Italian
Proscuitto or Spanish Serrano.
Cured duck breast or Canard
is a savoury blend of delicate
seasonings with just a kiss of
sweetness to balance the fine
sea salt, which almost puddles
on the tongue. In the mouth, it
is a velvety sensation that melts
away. Serve the thinly sliced
duck with melon or figs where
the natural sugars balance the
with Maria De Nardi
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earthy tones of the cured meat.
As well, serve with fresh fruit
or a creamy French blue like
St.Agur or Blue de Bresse.
There are many wines to go
with Cured Duck breast; some
classics would be French
Burgundy from Jadot or an
Italian Brunello from Castello
Banfi. But this week I have
chosen a modern style Zew
Zealand Pinot Noir from
Sacred Hill. Strawberry and
cherry aromas, which are
slightly herbal, give way to a
palette which has ripe luscious
fruit and some complexity.
Tannins are smooth. Well
priced at $21.99/btl.
My suggestion for Prosciutto di
Parma is 2003 Umani Ronchi
‘Jorio’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
DOC. Single-vineyard cuvee
from a 40 year-old plot of vines
planted at an altitude of 650 m.
The wine is deep ruby-violet in
color with rich aromas of
cherry and plum fruit. The
palette is laced with sweet lico -
rice and subtle spice notes.
$16.99/btl.
My suggestion for Spanish
Serrano Ham is 2002 Bodegas
Piqueras ‘Terre Grande’
Reserva Almansa DO. Oak
hogsheads gives this Garnacha,
Syrah, Monastrell blend a soft,
ripe tannin structure. Intense
ripe berry flavors have a spicy,
peppery edge. $24.50/btl.
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